Then the time comes when you need to load it on a trailer or in a pickup.  You go to Discount-Mart and buy the discounted tie-down straps because they are cheap.  You load your bike, strap it down and away you go. 

………………………………………….

As a motorcycle shop owner, there have been a number of opportunities to help stand a customer’s motorcycle back up up before it can be unloaded.  That is a sick feeling.  The owner is usually making unsightly comments about the choice of cheap straps or rope he used.  I don’t care if it is a stock production motorcycle or a full custom with a mega-buck paint job. It’s sickening to see the motorcycle laying on its side. I hate the disappointment in the owners face.  The bike seems to never be the same after that.  It has been damaged and violated.  That scrub or dent is a painful reminder. 

…………………………………………….

The function of tie-down straps.

The function of a tie-down strap is simple.  Securely support the motorcycle in an upright position without scratching the paint and chrome, or denting the sheet metal.  Meanwhile, the motorcycle is jerking around on a jolting trailer which is hitting pavement joints and pot holes and going down the road at 70 MPH.  That is what the tie-down strap is supposed to do.

I wish I could say I’ve never dropped a cycle in a trailer.  I did once, a long time ago.  It was a used Honda 360 I had just bought.  I did several things wrong.  I used rope.  The trailer had a slick floor and I didn’t tie the the wheel to keep it from sliding.  And that brings up a question.    

Why not rope? 

Rope is a last ditch choice to be used only when no other option is available.  Ropes stretch excessively letting the motorcycle move.  The knots can be difficult to untie.  Re-tightening a rope during a long trip is clumsy because of having to untie and then retying the knots.  The security is only as good as the person’s ability to tie knots.  Unbuffered rope rubs paint and chrome.  It is difficult to keep the motorcycle controlled, so it doesn’t fall over during a single handed tie-down or unloading.  This the reason for using tie-down straps and not rope. 

Considerations when choosing Tie-Down straps.

Length

Lengths are available from 4′ to 12′.  Make sure the length is enough to reach the trailer tie points. 

Load limit

The Discount-Mart straps generally have a 300-600 pound load limit.  Most tie-down straps at the Discount-Mart are actually cargo straps made to secure bulk loads on pickups and trailers.  Straps designed for motorcycles are generally 1000 pound or more working strength.  A 1200-2600 pound limit is common.  More is better.

Buckle strap or ratchet strap

The primary straps holding the motorcycle in position are the two straps fastened to the front of the bike.  The fastening location is commonly the triple-tree or handlebars.  I prefer the triple-tree location.  It is generally recommended that ratchet straps be used for this purpose.  Ratchets are less likely to slip.  After mastering the use of the ratchets, tie down becomes fairly simple.  It is easy to cinch the bike into place.  It is easy to retighten on a long trip.

Many people use buckle straps for the primary support.  This is where trouble comes when using cheap straps.  Aside from low working strength, the fabric material in the cheap straps is usually hard and the serrations in the buckle have difficulty getting a bite, so the strap slips and the bike falls.  The buckle straps designed for motorcycles are higher strength.  A softer and thicker strap material is used which is easier for the buckle to grab.  There is less chance of the buckle slipping. 

Generally, buckle straps are used when securing the front tire to keep it from slipping out from under the bike and when tying the rear of the bike to keep it from walking side to side.

Metal hook type

Most straps use  “J” hooks which are coated with a rubbery material.  If you prefer hooking to the handlebar with the hook, not all hooks are large enough to fit the inch handle bar diameter.  Make sure the hook is large enough.

Some straps use one coated “J” hook and one caribiner style hook for the trailer side which has a “snap-flip”.  This is used to keep the hook in place even if the strap gets slack.  It is also helpful by keeping the hook fastened when loading a cycle by yourself. 

“Soft Hook”

This is a feature I really like.  The “soft hook” is actually an additional length of strap material with a loop that is added to one end of the tie-down.  The “soft hook” is threaded through the desired fastening location on the cylce.  The loop on the “soft hook” is slipped over the “J” hook and the strap is then pulled tight.  Many times, a “soft hook” can be used to get a good fastening location when a metal hook will not fit.  Only fabric is touching the bike, not coated metal.  On some bikes, this is the only way to easily keep the hook from making contact with paint and sheet metal parts and causing damage.  For further protection, the metal hook is held away from the bike.  The soft hook can be used with a fleece sleeve to give more paint and chrome protection.

Fleece sleeve

Generally, the fleece sleeve is a natural or synthetic wool material.  It is slipped over the “soft hook” or a tie strap and used to buffer paint and chrome at the tie down point.  It adds protection in addition to the fabric of the “soft hooks” or tie straps.

Tie Straps

The tie strap is a fabric loop used as an alternate to the “soft hook”.  It is a fabric strap about 18-24″ long with a loop sewn on both ends.  It is used similarly to the “soft hook”.  It can be used with, and many times is included with, the fleece sleeve.   

Conclusion

My thought is…. I paid good money for my bike,  I’ll pay for good straps.

Safe trailering to ya.  Keep the shiny side up.

These are links to our web store MotorcycleStuffWarehouse.com.  These links feature the products mentioned in the article. Feel free to look round the store. This is just a sample.
Tie-Down Straps 
Soft-Hook
Tie Straps
Ratchet with sheepskin sleeve
Caribiner style hook ratchet
Caribiner style hook buckle

“Finally!!”, I thought, “Somebody has said something that makes sense.” The next day I went to the shop and started taking inventory. This is what I found.

A Paughco softail style frame.
A set of new 2″ over fork tubes with lowers which had been scratched during a previous build.
One new HD softail seat.
A set of 1991 HD 13 spoke mag wheels in good condition, a 16? rear and a 19? front.
A 3 ohm DYNA ignition coil.
A Compufire ignition module.
A take-off HD fishtail exhaust.
A set of Performance machine hand controls.
Several unattached drive belts.
Several choices for handlebars, mirrors, signal lights etc.
Various cables, brake lines, etc.
Enough 16 gauge stainless, 16 and 14 gauge cold rolled steel, and 3/32 aluminum sheet to make lots of stuff.

There is one thing common to all these parts. They have a desperate need to become part of something bigger. They need to become a part of the “New Economy Cycle”.

This is what I am going to do. I am going to build the “New Economy Cycle”. I have some ideas but, I agree with the TV expert. What the final outcome will look like is still pretty much of a mystery.

I hope to be done by September 2009. My wife and I have a big ride planned and I would like to ride the “New Economy Cycle”. To complete this bike in time is going to depend on time, parts, and money. The focus will be on building a dependable and comfortable long distance cruiser on a definate low-buck budget.

From time to time, this will be updated with new developments and pictures so stay tuned for more.

G. T. Henry

Let’s start by taking a look at the factors that contribute to tire wear.  This article is primarily about cruiser/touring motorcycles.  However the principles apply to other motorcycle types.

Tire quality:

The old addage,” you get what you pay for” is somewhat true about motorcycle tires.  When comparing tires for the same recommended application, cheaper tires usually have a shorter life.  It comes down to a difference in tread depth and rubber quality.

On the other side, the wear life for the most expensive tires is not necessarily proportionally greater. 

For reasonable mileage at reasonable cost, the mid-price range tires usually work out well.   Around 9000 miles is the highest verifiable mileage I have seen from motorcycle tires.  These were Dunlop K555Js on two Honda VTX1300’s and a Yamaha XVS1100.  For average commuting/weekend riding, about 5000-6000 miles is common.  Usually a 3500 mile tire means an agressive riding stye or low tire pressure.    

How much wear is too much:

Most motorcycle tires have wear indicator bars similar to automotive tires.  When these wear bars are even with the tread surface hitting the road, it is time to change.

Inserting a penny into the tread groove, Lincolns head first, is another common gauge.  If the tread just comes to Lincoln’s head or less, it is time to change the tire.

The tire in this picture is dangerously over-worn.  There is less than a sixteenth of an inch of tire thickness and no less than a good firm finger jab between an inflated tire and disaster.  Don’t wait this long to replace a tire.

Basic wear pattern: 

Because a motorcycle tire has a crowned or rounded profile (as compared to a car tire with a flat profile), for most bike riding, the center third of the tire will wear faster than the tread along the edge of the tire.  This is because most riding is “straight up” highway or street riding, and the center of the tire is what touches the pavement.  

Type of riding and riding style:

Start and stop, light to light riding shortens tire life.  The accelerating and braking scrubs off tire rubber.

Straight-up Interstate riding, mile after mile has less tire wear.

Concrete can be more abrasive to tires than asphalt.

Agressive starting and stopping and knee-dragging greatly shortens tire life.  The harder you hammer the bike, the shorter the tire mileage. 

Tire balancing:

An unbalanced motorcycle tire bounces down the road.  How much it bounces depends on how unbalanced it is.  This makes all kinds of cupping and uneven “spot” wear which creates it’s own brand of vibration.  A tire can have good tread except for a spot or two making it necessary to replace the tire prematurely. 

The vibration from the tire being unbalanced and cupped is tiring for the riders.  It can be miserable on a long ride. 

Proper tire pressure cannot be over emphasized:

Maintain tire pressure to no less than the motorcycle manufacturer recommendations, and no more than the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire.  As a general rule, the more weight carried, the higher the pressure needed.

A tire pressure that is too low causes the contact patch with the road to squirm and scrub as the contact area flattens to the road surface, essentially scrubbing off tire rubber.  This under-inflated tire consumes horsepower and fuel because it is harder to roll.  (Have you ever tried to push a bike with a flat tire?) It also affects motorcycle handling by making the bike difficult to turn in tight corners.  The bike wants to understeer or keep going straight.

Maximum tire pressure when it is not required causes the tire to ride the top of the tire crown.  The contact patch becomes short and narrow.   The bike is easy to roll and handling is probably very good but the tire contact patch is so narrow that the very center takes all the wear.  Lowering the tire pressure to the recommendation for the load will make the contact patch slightly wider and longer, putting more rubber surface on the road.  This will distribute the starting/stopping/handling load over a larger surface reducing tire wear.

Checking tire pressure:

Tires lose air pressure!  New tires lose air pressure!  Tires with inner tubes lose air pressure!  Tubeless tires lose air pressure!  The tire type or brand does not matter, it will lose air pressure over time.  Tire pressure needs to be checked regularly.

So what does this all mean?

It is not possible to guarantee wear mileage for a motorcyle tire because of all the variables involved.  But with care, tire life can be maximized for a particular rider and motorcycle.

I have learned that on my motorcycle, that checking monthly and before extended rides keeps tire pressure where I like it.  I am currently at 7000 miles on a set of Dunlops with about a 1000 more to go.  The front tire is a Dunlop D404 110/90-19 and the rear is a Dunlop K555J 170/80-15.  About 5500 miles was interstate in 100+ degree weather and the bike (over)loaded to the max, and the rest has been everyday parts running and weekend riding.

ENJOY THE RIDE.

G. T. Henry

To see the tires we offer click here to go to MotorcycleStuffWarehouse.com.

The sub-title is “One Motorcycle’s Story.”

I am writing this post because a lot of ‘60, ‘70 ‘and ‘80 motorcycles are being pulled out of retirement in response to gas prices.  The problems with this Goldwing are typical when trying to breath new life into an old bike.  This story is true.  Names have been changed to protect the innocent.

This is the story of an ‘82 Goldwing.  It appeared to be in basic reasonable condition but had not been ridden in about 10 years.  I was asked to just put on new tires, clean the carbs, check the brakes and generally make it safe to ride.  It sounded reasonably simple.

So, I started.

Let’s see if it will turn over, fire and maybe even run.  Add a splash of gas, check the oil, turn the key, hit the switch and …nothing.  Charge the battery.  The battery is shot.  What is that wet spot I see collecting on top of the engine.  It looks strangely like gas.  The bottom of that gas tank doesn’t look too good.  Oh well, I will add it on the list of things to check.  It is not leaking too bad for right now.

A new battery is ordered and installed.  New spark plugs are installed.  There is still gas in the tank.  Turn the key and hit the switch.  The engine turns once…twice..what is that smell?  Where is that smoke coming from?  Why did the engine quit turning over.  The starter fried.  This is becoming more that I bargained for.  Oh well.  Let’s get the starter replaced and go on.

The new starter arrives.  Remove the exhaust (man, that exhaust pipe looks rotten), Loosen the engine and slide it to the side.  Remove the old starter without losing anything inside the engine case.  Install the new starter (four hours of frustration trying to get the starter drive chain and gear splines aligned with the splines on the starter shaft).

While the engine is loose, remove carbs and install the rebuild kits which took two days to locate and another five for delivery.  Chip and soak the varnish out of the carb  bowls, and every little jet and passage.  Two days later, reassemble and install the carbs.  Check fuel flow to the carbs before connecting the new fuel line.  No flow.

The tank has gas.  No gas coming out.  Remove fuel valve from side of tank under seat.  Full of gunk.  Clean valve and run a piece of stiff wire into the tank passage.  It gets blocked. 

Oh well, let’s remove the tank to clean it.  It needs to be fixed anyway.  I sure would like to start this thing to see if runs.

Remove rear tire, fender, swingarm, and everything else in the way.  Slide the tank out from under the seat area toward the rear of the bike.  Those brake pads are shot.  What is that white powdery stuff coming out from around the caliper piston?  I wonder if the front brakes are the same?  Yup!! Just like the back brakes.  AND THE CALIPERS ARE FROZEN!! AND LOOK AT THAT RUBBER BRAKE LINE.  IT HAS SOME MAJOR CRACKING GOING ON.  Man… I hope this thing runs!!

I empty the gas and look in the tank to see the condition.  What a bucket of rust.  Cleaning and using tank liner is out of the question.  Inside the tank are two tubes for the main and reserve settings and both have inaccessible screens on the ends.  Tank liner would plug them up tight.  The bottom is thin with lots of rust pinholes, so something has to be done.  I price a new tank.  $1300 but not available.  This is a problem. 

Only one choice.  Clean the tank and break out the solder.  The tank is cleaned in and out with a strong degreaser, and the pickup tubes are rodded out to make sure they are open.  The tank is allowed to air for several days.  A large area is buffed and coated with solder.

Man, I sure hope this bike runs.

I cannot get the old calipers apart.  New calipers are no longer available.  After two days of looking, I find a source for reconditioned brake calipers and get them on order.  I will see them in about two weeks.  I find and order master cylinder rebuild kits. 

I install the fuel tank and reassemble the rear of the bike using various much needed new parts where required.

I put fuel in the tank.  Fuel is finally coming out.  But it is not getting to the carbs.  The fuel pump has died.  Replace the fuel pump.

I still hope this thing runs.

Finally, the carbs are full of gas, the battery is good, the starter works, the oil is fresh, the timing belts are new.  Now, let’s see if this starts.  Turn the key, hit the switch…… the engine turns and fires.  Let it warm up and then shut it off.

Adjust the engine valves.

Start the engine and balance the carbs.

Install reconditioned calipers with new brake pads.

Rebuild the master cylinders.

Install new wheel bearings and seals.

Put on new tires.

There was a good test ride.

After it was all done, parts cost for this simple request was about $2000 and full labor time would have been about $3000.

This is what was required to just “put on new tires, clean the carbs, check the brakes and generally make it safe to ride”.  Once into the job, there was no stopping until it came out the other side.

Threadlocker is bad.

Thread locking compounds are applied to bolts to keep them from vibrating loose.  Certain motorcycles have a bad habit of spreading parts along the road as the bolts fall out.  Threadlockers keep the parts on and the roadway clear of roadkill motorcycle parts.

I use two types of threadlocker.  Medium strength and High Strength. 

The Medium Strength threadlocker is what I use most often.  It is a general purpose threadlocker and can be applied to small Phillips Head screws and anything larger.  Medium Strength stays sort of gummy and can be removed with some resistance but relatively easily.  The small fasteners (ie. handlebar control screws, etc.) require only a small drop.  Larger fasteners can be smothered in Medium Strength threadlocker if so desired.  I use this on some axle threads and nuts. 

The High Strength threadlocker, I use in only a few locations.  Usually where the fastener is large (3/8″ or larger) and they take a pounding.  Applications include clutch to output shaft nuts, stator nuts, fork stem nut or bolt, etc.  The High Strength threadlocker gets hard.  Small bolts may break before loosening with the High Strength threadlocker.  Finding that High Strength threadlocker has been used on small Phillips Head, Allen, or Torx is a mechanics nightmare.  Particularly after the heads have already been stripped out.  Politely stated—AAAAAAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!!!!!!!

For general chassis use, Medium Strength threadlocker is sufficient.  Occasionally, High Strength may be necessary but only on larger fasteners.

High Strength threadlocker should never be used on anything 1/4″ and smaller.  It has too strong of a hold for successful fastener removal.  If a larger bolt has a 5/32″ or smaller allen or T25 or smaller torx head, using medium strength should be considered to keep from stripping out the head. 

Threadlocker is good—-when used properly.

Threadlocker is bad—-if High Strength is used on the wrong fastener.

Here are some techniques which will help to make the ride on gravel more controllable.  A basic sensation when riding on gravel is that even with the bike under complete control, it will still feel a little “squirrely”.

• When aproaching the gravel road, brake to slow the bike while you are still on pavement. 
• Do most of your turning while you are still on pavement.  Have the motorcycle aimed in the basic direction you want to go once you cross from pavement to gravel.
• Coast from pavement to gravel.  Avoid braking during the transition from pavement to gravel.  This keeps the wheels from locking up on the gravel.
• If you do have to brake on gravel, use the rear brake only.  Braking with the front brake may cause the front wheel to skid causing loss of steering and a possible spill.  A rear wheel skid is more easily controlled.
• Off-road riders hug the fuel tank with their legs to better feel and control the bike.  This also works when riding on gravel.  I find that by hugging the tank, I use my legs to stabilize the bike by pushing the bike side-to-side.
• The correct speed is important.  I see people trying to go 2-5 mph on gravel and then blame the gravel.  Try riding that slow in a paved parking lot.  It is difficult and on some bikes nearly impossible.  A good “slowest” speed for riding on gravel is 10 mph.
• When returning to pavement from gravel, align the motorcycle on the gravel so the turn can be easily completed once the motorcycle is on pavement.
• Minimize and avoid if possible, spinning the rear tire on the gravel before hitting the pavement.  A fast spinning tire grabbing the pavement creates a hard jerk on the drive components which could cause damage.  The sudden difference in bike handling can also cause a moment or two of excitement.
• Remember, on gravel, even with the bike under control, it will still feel a little unstable.

I hope these techniques help remove the anxiety of riding on gravel and other unfavorable surfaces.  Knowing it can be controlled makes a more enjoyable ride.

Click the thumbnails for a larger picture.

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