Maximizing Tire Mileage
What does it take to get more miles out of your motorcycle tires?
Let’s start by taking a look at the factors that contribute to tire wear. This article is primarily about cruiser/touring motorcycles. However the principles apply to other motorcycle types.
Tire quality:
The old addage,” you get what you pay for” is somewhat true about motorcycle tires. When comparing tires for the same recommended application, cheaper tires usually have a shorter life. It comes down to a difference in tread depth and rubber quality.
On the other side, the wear life for the most expensive tires is not necessarily proportionally greater.
For reasonable mileage at reasonable cost, the mid-price range tires usually work out well. Around 9000 miles is the highest verifiable mileage I have seen from motorcycle tires. These were Dunlop K555Js on two Honda VTX1300’s and a Yamaha XVS1100. For average commuting/weekend riding, about 5000-6000 miles is common. Usually a 3500 mile tire means an agressive riding stye or low tire pressure.
How much wear is too much:
Most motorcycle tires have wear indicator bars similar to automotive tires. When these wear bars are even with the tread surface hitting the road, it is time to change.
Inserting a penny into the tread groove, Lincolns head first, is another common gauge. If the tread just comes to Lincoln’s head or less, it is time to change the tire.
The tire in this picture is dangerously over-worn. There is less than a sixteenth of an inch of tire thickness and no less than a good firm finger jab between an inflated tire and disaster. Don’t wait this long to replace a tire.
Basic wear pattern:
Because a motorcycle tire has a crowned or rounded profile (as compared to a car tire with a flat profile), for most bike riding, the center third of the tire will wear faster than the tread along the edge of the tire. This is because most riding is “straight up” highway or street riding, and the center of the tire is what touches the pavement.
Type of riding and riding style:
Start and stop, light to light riding shortens tire life. The accelerating and braking scrubs off tire rubber.
Straight-up Interstate riding, mile after mile has less tire wear.
Concrete can be more abrasive to tires than asphalt.
Agressive starting and stopping and knee-dragging greatly shortens tire life. The harder you hammer the bike, the shorter the tire mileage.
Tire balancing:
An unbalanced motorcycle tire bounces down the road. How much it bounces depends on how unbalanced it is. This makes all kinds of cupping and uneven “spot” wear which creates it’s own brand of vibration. A tire can have good tread except for a spot or two making it necessary to replace the tire prematurely.
The vibration from the tire being unbalanced and cupped is tiring for the riders. It can be miserable on a long ride.
Proper tire pressure cannot be over emphasized:
Maintain tire pressure to no less than the motorcycle manufacturer recommendations, and no more than the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire. As a general rule, the more weight carried, the higher the pressure needed.
A tire pressure that is too low causes the contact patch with the road to squirm and scrub as the contact area flattens to the road surface, essentially scrubbing off tire rubber. This under-inflated tire consumes horsepower and fuel because it is harder to roll. (Have you ever tried to push a bike with a flat tire?) It also affects motorcycle handling by making the bike difficult to turn in tight corners. The bike wants to understeer or keep going straight.
Maximum tire pressure when it is not required causes the tire to ride the top of the tire crown. The contact patch becomes short and narrow. The bike is easy to roll and handling is probably very good but the tire contact patch is so narrow that the very center takes all the wear. Lowering the tire pressure to the recommendation for the load will make the contact patch slightly wider and longer, putting more rubber surface on the road. This will distribute the starting/stopping/handling load over a larger surface reducing tire wear.
Checking tire pressure:
Tires lose air pressure! New tires lose air pressure! Tires with inner tubes lose air pressure! Tubeless tires lose air pressure! The tire type or brand does not matter, it will lose air pressure over time. Tire pressure needs to be checked regularly.
So what does this all mean?
It is not possible to guarantee wear mileage for a motorcyle tire because of all the variables involved. But with care, tire life can be maximized for a particular rider and motorcycle.
I have learned that on my motorcycle, that checking monthly and before extended rides keeps tire pressure where I like it. I am currently at 7000 miles on a set of Dunlops with about a 1000 more to go. The front tire is a Dunlop D404 110/90-19 and the rear is a Dunlop K555J 170/80-15. About 5500 miles was interstate in 100+ degree weather and the bike (over)loaded to the max, and the rest has been everyday parts running and weekend riding.
ENJOY THE RIDE.
G. T. Henry
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Tags: MOTORCYCLE TIRES, SAFETY, TIRE BALANCING, TIRE MILEAGE, TIRE WEAR